Review: ‘The Bear’ Season 5, Episode 1 “Soda”

When it rains it pours. And as Chicago readies for a torrential storm, The Bear treads an existential crisis. Time is up for the Michelin star-chasing eatery, now owned by Sydney, Richie and Sugar after Carmy’s departure. Rather than fold at the writing on the wall, the team has resolved to weather the flood.

The dire straits has impacted everyone differently. Tina reminisces about her first layoff, dreading that feeling of unhappiness more than anything. Thinking of Mikey on his way to work, Richie is T-boned (picking up from the “Gary” episode). Sydney opens the restaurant and finds the early silence interrupted by groaning pipes — a note alluded to throughout the episode as cigarettes collect in a flooded drain. Just then, Carmy enters the kitchen. Syd’s called her former boss for help.

Meanwhile, Computer discusses harsh truths with Uncle Jimmy, who suffered a bad trade losing 3/4 of his fortune. The building is a waste and needs to be sold to the highest bidder if he wants to survive. Richie learns this information and oddly offers to help.

Ebra, injured, notes that the clock has run out of time. Syd reassures him they’re staying until the lights go out. In a move to maybe even convince herself, she starts the clock in ascending order.

After dropping her daughter off with Donna, Sugar arrives. The business manager has seen better days. She relays to Sydney that in order to stretch bills, she’ll need to stretch ingredients, taking each dish down 15 percent. That’s when Richie has the great idea to operate at maximum speed. Refusing to remain stagnant. One can’t hit a moving target.

The episode ends with Ted and Fax approaching the racket coming from the pipes. Much like the pressure at every turn, it bursts, showering Ted in filth.

While many would have hoped to find The Bear in better condition, this is unfortunately the reality of the business. After a window of success, the harsh truth has shattered the glass of their dreams. Individually, fear is written all over their faces. But collectively, one can sense a quiver of hope. Maybe they each are putting on for one another. Either way it’s working.

The Bear has returned on all cylinders, even as the machine falls apart. Unique this season, creator Christopher Storer has all eight episodes chronicle this one fateful day. The writing is natural and familiar as if these characters are long-time friends. And the comedy is there. It’s common to disparage it for the more dramatic moments, but the laughter is genuine and often. A much needed reprieve in these uncertain times.

Rating: 8/10

Photo credit: FX Networks

Lorin Williams: TV Editor @ Mxdwn Television. Hoosier. TV enthusiast. Podcaster. Pop culture fiend.
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